At the recent Cheltenham Literature Festival we enjoyed listening to Clarissa Dickson-Wright talking about her new book ‘ A History of English Food’. I find it fascinating the way that history changes what we eat and how food itself can change history. She told a great anecdote about battles being lost because soldiers deserted their posts when their beer ration ran out, and a fascinating story of Eleanor of Aquitaine travelling on crusade with her ladies and bringing back new exotic spices from Jerusalem which dramatically changed the way food was seasoned.
In the world of preserving there are some interesting tales to tell too. The origins of the word ‘marmalade‘ are often debated, but my favourite is the one about Mary Queen of Scots who was given preserved oranges to cure sea sickness – the word ‘marmalade’ coming from the French ‘Marie est malade’ (Mary is ill). Chutney comes from the Indian word ‘chatni’. Typically chatni was not cooked, but was a mix of fruits and spices left out in the sun to mature. Chutney as we know it today was brought back by the British from India but given the poor chances of maturing outside in our chilly climate, was cooked instead with vinegar and sugar to help the preserving process.
Mustard has been made in this country for many hundreds of years but not in a form that we would recognise today. There was reportedly a ‘mustard house’ in Tewkesbury in Gloucestershire and from there came the famous Tewkesbury Mustard a version of which we make at Kitchen Garden. Our Tewkesbury Mustard comes in a jar, but in those days you would have purchased your mustard as a ball of mustard paste (the seeds having been ground in a stone mortar using a cannonball) which you would then reconsitute with vinegar or verjuice – a sour juice made from grapes or crab apples. It was not unknown for these paste balls to be coated in a thin layer of gold leaf for the more affluent customer.
Food, like language, changes and evolves at an ever increasing rate, as more of us travel and use the internet. We are fortunate to have the opportunity to eat and cook with ingredients from around the world, blending them with our own indigeneous produce and giving us the chance to be endlessly creative. Thanks in part to Eleanor of Aquitaine, we no longer need to go on Crusade to spice up our cuisine!